When Dirk suggested a 4 day mountain biking trip to Cambodia’s Cardamom Mountains, I couldn’t say no. Being in a constant state of mountain deprivation in flat Cambodia, it was finally a chance to go do some proper hills. In the end, five of us agreed to join: Belgian man Dirk, Geoff from UK, Andreas from East Germany, Panya (our guide) from Cambodia, and me harkening from Ireland.
Day 1
We left Phnom Penh late on Thursday evening to drive three hours to the town of Pursat. Friday morning was then up at the crack of dawn to drive another three hours to our starting point, Phumi Pramoay. We ditched the car, grabbed our bikes and our final bowl of beef noodle soup, and started cycling south in the hot morning sun. Within half an hour, the heavens opened and the monsoon began. The wide dirt road became a watery, muddy mess that our bikes hated but the local buffalos love.
The day started out very flat, but within an hour or two the climb began. What with having packs of 8-10 kilos on our backs, many of the climbs were reduced to a walk. The climbs weren’t that steep or long. There just happened to be loads of them. What didn’t help was that the dirt road in places was churned up by the logging trucks that are carting out many of the Cardamom’s trees. One place looked like Armageddon, with burnt out tree stumps and jauganot trucks parked up waiting for the next day’s destruction.
After another hour, we arrived at a great big building with Chinese symbols emblazoned on its gates. Our maps said there was one road was meant to continue south, an old smugglers’ route. There were now most definitely two roads right in front of us. When we asked the local factory workmen if the southern road was right, they told us most definitely no. That road tried to cross a river. And that river was now too large to bridge.
We decided to ignore them. But then at the next stream crossing, another local told us to turn back. “There’s no boat. The monsoon has started. You cannot cross”. Undeterred, we decided to keep going and see for ourselves. What with the lack of traffic on the road, the smugglers route had now deteriorated to a uneven single track. Bamboo grew over the path, and many ravines had been cut through with steep descents on either side. Our pace slowed. And soon it got dark.
We had hoped to reach the river before setting up camp. But by 7.30pm, we were tired and hungry. We found a place beside a stream to drop our bikes and bags, gathered some wood from the surrounding jungle, and boiled water for our dehydrated noodle soups. By 9pm we were still too tired to go on, after 60 kilometres of riding and 1,300 metres of climb. So we hung our hammocks up in the bamboo forest and slept there with the mosquitoes, leeches, and any other wild animals that cared to join us for the night.
Day 2
After sleeping a surprisingly deep sleep, we packed up camp the next morning and headed towards the river. It took us an hour to travel the final 4 kilometres, the road’s many dips and dives and divots slowing our pace. When we got there, yes, the river was fast flowing and looked wide and deep. But there was a zip line rigged right across it which would bring bikes and bags and people nicely across.
It took us over an hour to get us all across. Then it was a quick swim before getting back on our bikes for more jungle ups and downs.
The trail became smoother and smoother the further we got from the river. But our bikes were not appreciating it. One by one, they all developed problems. Gears started grinding and slipping. One wheel had over five punctures in the space of half a day. My chain got a kink. Then Andreas’s forks decided to go ‘kaput’. Our bikes were not designed for the grimy climate and conditions that Cambodia’s monsoon and Cardamom Mountains dish up.
Our aim was to get us and our bikes down towards Tatai bridge, and rest our heads at a lodge there. Again, easier said than done. We continued on the road, checking off our GPS coordinates as we went. Reaching another new road not marked on our map, we asked a few locals which way to go. They pointed one way. Our GPS said another. We trusted the locals and ended up doing an extra loop and an hour on the bikes.
As Day 2 became dark, we decided to call ahead to the lodge to tell them to keep the rooms. We were too late. They were already given away. With nowhere to sleep, we chanced upon a roadside sign that pointed to another lodge 2 kilometres down the road. They had 2 bungalows available, so at least a place to crash. A Khmer lady dished up German snitzel and chips which we devoured without asking her too many questions about where she had learned her culinary prowess.
Day 3
We woke to hear that Geoff had had too much fun already and was happy to call it a day. Sad to no longer have his company on the trail, the silver lining meant that this freed up his bike for Andreas whose forks had also bowed out from the ride.
After two hours of bike repairs (including a new cable for me, a new tyre for Dirk, and a new bike for Andreas), we set out for a two hour tarmac ride. Again, more ups and downs, including a final up of 300 metres after a heavy rain, causing the hot tarmac to create a sauna effect on the ride. I was about to die.
We finally hit flat wide dirt road that headed straight back into the forest. Our destination for the day was Tma Bang, a Forest Rangers’ hut, 60 kilometres from our starting point. I was definitely feeling the strain of three days of mountain bike riding. Things were hurting and rubbing where they didn’t normally, but I was happy enough to carry on. So when Dirk suggested stopping at a waterfall just before our final stopping point, I thought a quick swim would help cool me off.
After a few hundred metres of single track, we hit the waterfall top. Dirk, Andreas, and Panya made a beeline for the waterfall, whilst I took my time to first put on my Keen shoes. Before I knew it, Dirk was lying on the rocks shaking his head. His foot had gone into a huge hole hidden by the water and had hit something sharp at the bottom. I looked and saw a huge gash on his foot. I didn’t look as close as Andreas, who announced he had seen bone.
Fortunately, Dirk the doctor and Andreas, who works for the Red Cross, knew exactly what to do. Iodine swabs and plasters were plucked from bags, and Dirk was cleaned and bandaged up right there on the rocks. But he needed stitches within 24 hours. So he needed to get back to Phnom Penh asap.
After hauling one-legged Dirk up the single track, we put him on a hired motorbike from the nearby village. Within a few metres, the motorbike broke down. So we plonked Dirk back on his own bike, and with his good leg, he wheeled himself away from the waterfall and out of the forest.
With five kilometres to the closest chance of hiring a car, Andreas and Panya placed themselves either side of Dirk and pushed him to the nearest town. After much negotiation, the owner of an old pick-up agreed to drive Dirk the hour back to the main tarmac road where a van from Phnom Penh would come and pick him up back in Tatai.
And rightly so, we decided to go back with him. Anything could happen him between Tatai and Phnom Penh, so he needed at least one person to accompany him. And anyhow, we were all tired and our bikes were knackered. And sure, we could always go back another time and cycle our Day 4 schedule of Tam Bang to Chi Phat.
Overall, it was definitely an adventure with a lot of crazy terrain including river crossings, zip lines, wild dogs, and interesting villages. It was also a lot harder than I expected: the heat, the monsoon rain, the heavy bags, and the long days all taking their toll. But it was good to see the Cardamom Mountains whilst they still have a semblance of forest. Hopefully when we return there’ll still be some trees there for us to tie our hammocks to.
All photos credited to Dirk and Geoff – thanks for the adventure lads!
Legendary post, I enjoy this spectacular site,I found you along freshly pressed!
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This is a good story and with great pictures 🙂
have a nice day
What are you looking and find in your tour multi-day mountain biking in the cardamom mountains. Are you enjoying for your sport or you are doing sport menwhile riset about natural resources ?
Wow! Your whole experience would make quite the made-for-TV movie. Better than any “reality” program that’s for sure.
Great blog post and fantastic pictures. I lived in Asia for years and started mountain biking there so I know something of the conditions you were riding in (but not so extreme!). I’m having my own mountain biking adventure later in the summer (August 21-28) when I ride off-road across the Alps. There are a few hills to get over but at least I won’t have to deal with swollen rivers!
An inspiring article. Thanks!
Nice adventure in Cambodia. Mountain biking is extreme yet I can see enjoyment on you!
thats so dope! mountain biking looks like so much fun. great story and nice photographs!
tour mountain biking very good for healthy while entrepreneurship in tourism… sport mountain biking…i like it!
awesome! its great to challenge yourself like that and great that you all knew what you were doing in the event of injury! keep at it
It looks like you had an exciting and unique experience! Definitely inspired me to do more cycling!
Lord. I am exhausted just reading this. Hardcore is right. Brilliant read though – I am very inspired and congrats on being freshly pressed. And great photos too!
Whoa! Looks fun! Awesome trip.
Thanks for the reminder of the red soil of Cambodia!
Great story!
What an amazing adventure! Makes my little road trips seem so tame. Glad you all survived the trip. Congrats on being FP”d!
Thanks for sharing this.
Whoa, that’s intense. I like to bike but wow!
Anthony Kraudelt
4820 Rands Road
Bloomfield Hills, MI 48302
woa, amazing trip! I really have admired your job!^^
Nice blog !!! Yeah that truck was stuck good. I’ll add your link at http://thor27.wordpress.com Later !
I love cycling but not mountain-biking …. But your story inspires me. My country has so many beautiful mountains .. I should try someday. Thanks a lot!
good experience!
Looks like you guys had an amazing adventure. The fun and brotherhood can be seen in all your pictures. How the bike crossed the river was a cool idea!
Great description of your 3 day adventure – really felt like I was back there. Though I was wondering about unexploded landmines – more of an issue 10 years ago when getting off road, and now seemingly not a worry – thank goodness. Would love to see how they get that dug-in truck out of that mud – wonder if it’s still there!!!
What you do is what I wish I can do in the future. I envy you so much. Keep posting about your adventures aight, I really enjoy to read it 😀
you should submit this to Nora – the professional hobo! this is a perfect “week in the life of”…
wtg on FP… thanks for sharing your adventures!!! 😉
You are good voyager.
great adventure. Amazing!
Super adventure! Camping, biking and hiking all in one package seems completely awesome.
Nicely written too. 🙂
that sure looks like a great adventure:) thanks for sharing!
an awesome blog post, wild
You’ve inspired me on my next adventure. Keep em coming.
This was a great read. My hope is to rent a bike and run a race in each European city I visit in September. This post was such an inspiration, and I hope you’re friends foot heals well.
Well, continue to have tons of fun! Take care.
Crazy ah, the scenery is good
Wow! What an adventure!
wow, amazing!
The great men, the great adventure.
Incredible journey – a perfect blog to inspire us all to add some adventure into our lives. The picture of the bike being zip-lined is absolutely classic.
I love the fact you all made the journey back with Dirk after his fall, very noble.
must’ve been such an amazing time! so hardcore 🙂
How long did you prepare to this ride? and above, how?
Wow! Your whole experience would make quite the made-for-TV movie. Better than any “reality” program that’s for sure.
how exciting! but you seem so calm and collected!
Very cool voyage! Love the zip line.
What a thrilling adventure! You get mountain biking, camping and, hiking all in the same trip. That’s one way to live life!
I keep wondering about putting a stitching needle in my 1st aid kit. Think you could have stitched his foot without local anesthesia?
awesome post! My favorite is the photo of the zip lining bike…..love it!
These mountains are very challenging for any biker.
Great stuff!
Although I’m not looking for world records I too enjoy going outside. Mostly on foot. Since I got injured it’ll be on wheelchair and hopefully I’ll have some great videos and photos about that as well.
good adventure,.
http://yoolah.wordpress.com
I’me surprised by your bikes. Not that there is anything wrong witht them but the few “round the world and way in the back woods” mountain bikers I know tend to favor fixies with flip flop hubs and HUGE tires. But apparently those were all the bike you needed for the job. Maybe the other guys are just gear addicts and you guys have a better system? Outstanding, sir.
hoping you can accomplish this adventure happily!
This looks like a fantastic adventure!
awesome! its great to challenge yourself like that and great that you all knew what you were doing in the event of injury! keep at it
And after you’ve been back home for a month, it will be time to go out and do it again!
Real adventure!!!
Kick ass! Great photos. Great story. Thanks for sharing; glad you were freshly pressed!
Great blog post and fantastic pictures. I lived in Asia for years and started mountain biking there so I know something of the conditions you were riding in (but not so extreme!). I’m having my own mountain biking adventure later in the summer (August 21-28) when I ride off-road across the Alps. There are a few hills to get over but at least I won’t have to deal with swollen rivers!
An inspiring article. Thanks!
Wow, what amazing experience.
It’s very interesting of the the picture “Zip-lining our bikes across the ‘uncrossable’ river.”
This looks fun. i’m thinking about heading over to Cambodia in about a month. I’m in Thailand now and can’t decide between Cambodia and Laos. Maybe both!
Laos is much more sleepy, but beautiful. Cambodia has Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Shinakouville and Kep… but then, I’m biased!
You’re lucky to go on an adventure like that mate! I envy you!
Cool blog
I remember the Red mud in Australia! It’s impossible to ride on that!
Cool photos.
Boa viagem pessoal!!
I like it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wow, that looks amazing! Being in Cambodia myself at the moment (living not visiting) maybe I should find myself somebody to go and have some bike/hiking/forest adventures with! The weather during these months are quite a deterrent though as it just makes the already rough roads muddy and harder to navigate (but then again I guess that’s maybe half the fun for… well half the time, right?) and the humidity gets about 10 times worse than usual! Which is horrid when you expect the weather to be nice and cooling after the rain!
Ah, well, sounds like you had a grand adventure and those photos are really amazing! 🙂
Hi! Looks like you had a great trip! Just wanted to let you know that your second picture, the one with the timber, is actually luxury timber. It’s thousands of dollars worth of luxury timber. I worked in the Cardomom mountains with the military police for a year trying to catch these people. Too bad tourists usually don’t know and don’t have the resources to report this activity. Those mountains are so beautiful, and it’s too bad that this stuff happens in the proctected forest.
looks amazing
What an amazing adventure you and your friends had.
Hardcore indeed!
nice post bro…
do you want to try mountain biking in my country?
http://ekoprobo.wordpress.com/
I see beauty in those pics and also angst and rage and a bit of mirth. Nicely balanced post. Well done.
Wow, this is incredible! Both the rescue story, and the bicycle-crossing the river are absolutely awesome! Keep it up!
Hey guys, huge thanks for liking the post and the adventure! It wasn’t until I started writing it down that I realised what a crazy few days we had.
Quick update… Dirk’s foot is fine now – doctors were well impressed with the first aid on the waterfall. My leech bites are slowly healing, the aches and pains have started to subside, and all our bikes are getting sorted out in time for next week’s mountain bike race on the coast!
awesome. love the zip line for the bikes!
Wow. That is hard core. Much kudos.
looks like quite the adventure!
Sounds like you had a wonderful time for the most part in a remote area. Thanks for the pictures. They are very helpful and give pictures of what I would never see.
Most interesting
so very cool…this gives me ideas on my vacation trip!!! congrats on fp’ed
I likes the biking and camp in forest and mountains. that was great fun and awesome images.
I’ve saved all the images in my system.
nice post.
thanks
Wow, you are an inspiration! what an amazing adventure. I love biking – but i go for the vintage bike, one-gear variety and i am not very good!
BUT – i love where and how biking gets you round, and i love to plan this into my travels! (flat variety rather than mountains though)
Your blog is an inspiration to key doing that!
Wow, that sounds like quite the adventure! Thanks for sharing. 🙂
Thanks. http://calogeromiratraveland.wordpress.com
Looks extreme…
This is totally the type of adventure I need to start training for.
Crystal
You look like three guys doing this adventure for The Discovery Channel, will see how you’ll do in the next days 🙂
What an incredibly cool experience. Thank you for sharing!
🙂
Wow, that sounds like a crazy trip. I think I’d have bowed out long before Geoff did. 😀 Great photos, and thanks for taking us along for the trip… I suspect I enjoy living vicariously more than I would actually being there with the leeches. 😀 And congrats on being Freshly Pressed!
You guys are hardcore! Amazing story and photos!